Freeze Day 3: A challenging day, it got hot here too!
Published 3:35 pm Friday, July 28, 2023
Marshall Dillon and Miss Kitty might have stayed here. David Freeze photo
Downtown historic Alma. David Freeze photo
It was hot, but not quite this bad. David Freeze photo
Entering Minnesota at the Visitor Center on his old friend, US 61. David Freeze photo
Sunset over the Mississippi in Stoddard, Wisconsin last night. David Freeze photo
The Mississippi River between La Crosse, Wisconsin and La Crescent, Minnesota, and also where Freeze found a $5 bill. David Freeze photo
Editor’s note: David Freeze is cycling along the Mississippi River. This is part two of his adventure, riding from Dubuque, Iowa, up to to the source in Minnesota. Contact him at david.freeze@ctc.net.
I spent a wonderful night at the Water’s Edge Motel in Stoddard, Wisconsin. The Mississippi River was out front and the railroad track was behind. Trains ran regular through the night, and I love that too. I got my first ever sunset photos over the Mississippi. On my way out this morning, a guy in his pickup waited for me and wanted to know where I was going. My ultimate goal is a quick visit into Canada before I return home, and I told him so. He said the fires might be a problem for that trip, and he was most surprised that we get a smoky haze all the way into N.C.
As I write this, I have already eaten my ice cream, Nature’s Touch Premium Vanilla. And I am working on a Mega Buddy, the largest iced drink that Kwik Trip has. A train is rumbling by and a small air conditioner is struggling to cool a very nice room, again facing the Mississippi from the Hillcrest Motel, in business since 1957. I am finally cool for the first time this afternoon.
After Stoddard this morning, I pedaled to La Crosse, Wisconsin, a town of about 51,000. The main road through town is undergoing major construction, so mostly I rode among the workers. Traffic had to bypass it, but no one mentioned a thing to me. I rode across the Mississippi on Route 14, where I climbed a beautiful old bridge. Just on the other side, ever alert for nails, screws and glass that cause flats, I found a damp $5 bill. I have found coins often while running, but never a $5 bill.
Jon advised me last night to cross to the Minnesota side to get better views of the river and he was right again. As I began looking for a place to stay tonight, I found one that caused me to cross over again to the Wisconsin side. Much of the road was blacktop, the worst for a very hot day. I went through Winona and crossed the bridge there, and then visited Fountain City and arrived in Alma where I am spending the night. Both Fountain City and Alma are very historic, with quite a few buildings that look like Marshall Dillon and Miss Kitty would have liked them.
Alma became a village in 1868, immigrants started gathering here 20 years before. Originally called 12 Mile Bluff because of the prominent rocky point that can be seen for 12 miles away on the river. Riverboat pilots used it for navigation. This is a major bald eagle habitat too. I think I saw one today.
I had 74 miles today, but more than a mile was to go back into town for food. Thankful for a good tailwind, it was hot with the Alma bank thermometer at 101. Radio reports called it 95 and 96. Tomorrow is supposed to be cooler with rain, maybe starting tonight. That is fine with me, but I will try to get close to Minneapolis either way.
Thanks for following along on this adventure! My goal for this trip was to through the little towns along the upper river, and it has been a blast so far. Join me here again tomorrow!
