David Freeze: Cliffs and plenty of water at coastal state parks
Published 12:00 am Saturday, September 28, 2024
Cape Fear River at the back side of Carolina Beach State Park. David Freeze photo
Pelicans and other birds enjoy flooding at Fort Fisher. David Freeze photo
Carolina Beach State Park marina. David Freeze photo
Unspoiled beach at Fort Fisher State Recreation Area. David Freeze photo
Sand covers the boardwalk from the visitors center at Fort Fisher State Recreation Area. David Freeze photo
Downtown Carolina Beach flooded at early morning. David Freeze photo
The cliffs at Cliffs of the Neuse State Park. David Freeze photo
The swim lake and beach at Cliffs of the Neuse SP. David Freeze photo
The Neuse River at Cliffs of the Neuse State Park. David Freeze photo
Editor’s note: David Freeze is visiting all 42 state parks in North Carolina. Contact him at david.freeze@ctc.net.
The Cliffs of the Neuse State Park is near Seven Springs and covers 1,097 acres. The park, named for the Neusiok Indians, opened in 1945 and is known for the high banks along the Neuse River. The river is 250 miles long. I visited early on the morning of Sept. 11 and found the visitor center locked at 8 a.m., the listed opening time. I found a maintenance man who opened the door just long enough for me to get my passport stamp. Maps were on a rack outside.
I took the 350-Yard Trail and the Bird Trail to get great views of the Neuse River and the 90-foot cliffs high above it. Near the highest point, a fence blocks visitors from falling over the edge but soon the paths from the trails are open to unprotected banks. The highest point of the cliffs extends for about 600 yards and layers of sand, clay, seashells, shale and gravel form a multi-colored cliff face. The cliffs were formed when a fault in the earth’s crust shifted millions of years ago, and the river followed the fault line. A bend against the bank allowed the erosion that slowly carved the banks. The park has seven hiking trails, all rated easy or moderate.
The beautiful 11-acre swim lake has a sandy beach, diving platform and a large bathhouse. Canoes, kayaks, pedal boats and paddleboards are available for rent. Private boats aren’t allowed on the lake as swimming is very popular with a concession stand and a large parking lot.
Fishing is popular on the Neuse banks with bluegill, largemouth bass and catfish. Shad migrate upriver in the spring. The park has 30 campsites but only 12 have water, electrical and sewer for RVs. The park has three camper cabins, all with water and heating and air.
On Sept. 16, I drove to Carolina Beach as the tropical cyclone came ashore that morning. I checked the forecasts, and all signs pointed toward a better afternoon after heavy morning rains and winds. I don’t think anybody realized that up to 20 inches of rain would fall. Severe flooding was everywhere and gained national attention.
I drove to Carolina Beach State Park and found most of the park closed, even though many campers in tents had survived the rain onslaught and were still there. A ranger supplied the passport stamp, but she made no promises whether the park would be open on Tuesday. I then drove toward Fort Fisher State Recreation Area and found the roads blocked due to flooding. I retraced my route and tried to figure my way around the flooding. I gave up and got an overpriced room on the high side of the worst flooding.
On Tuesday, I drove to Fort Fisher and found the roads open but with plenty of damage from the flooding. Fort Fisher State Recreation Area, opened in 1986 and near Kure Beach, didn’t miss out on damage, but much of it was still undetermined as I beat the first park rangers and staff to the parking lot. Once they opened the nice visitor center, I got my stamp while talking to the ranger in charge. I had already walked out to the huge beach area and saw sand piled high on the boardwalk. Blown sand and water were everywhere and the park’s only trail was flooded. The Basin Trail will be something I do when returning later, as it ends near one of Fort Fisher’s batteries and includes a WWII bunker.
Fishing and swimming in the ocean are popular. The beach is pristine and has nothing commercial for seven miles. Loggerhead turtles nest along the shoreline. There is no camping on site. The N.C. ferry, the N.C. Aquarium and the Fort Fisher Historic Site are adjacent to the recreation area.
I then drove back to Carolina Beach State Park and found the visitor center open but most of the park remained closed. I wanted to see the marina and the Cape Fear River at the back of the park. The small park has just 761 acres and was established in 1969. The park is unusual in that it has five different carnivorous plants, including sundews, bladderworts, butterworts, pitcher plants and Venus flytraps. All are displayed at the back of the visitor’s center. The park is also popular for animal life with some of the most notable being alligators, brown pelicans, ospreys and several varieties of fox. Birding is very popular.
The 54-slip marina was a high point for me. I was determined to see it and talked another ranger into letting me walk there on a partially flooded road. I told her I needed the photos for a newspaper article. About to have to walk through knee-high water in my bare feet, I heard a horn behind me and caught a ride with a wildlife officer named Bill checking on his boat. We saw three white-tailed deer for a great photo.
No swimming is allowed in the park due to dangerous currents. A beautiful picnicking spot is beside the marina. There are nine hiking trails ranging from a quarter mile to 3 miles and all are rated easy. Camping is big here, with 70 tent/trailer sites with no hookups and nine RV sites with full hookups. The park also has four very nice camper cabins and two group camping areas, good for 26 and 40 people.
The fun continues with 40 parks visited and two remaining.
